Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917

THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO - AN ACCOUNT OF TWO YEARS' TRAVEL IN THE LAND OF THE HEAD-HUNTERS BETWEEN THE YEARS 1913 AND 1917 - BY - CARL LUMHOLTZ - MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF SCIENCES OF CHRISTIANIA, NORWAY GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE NORWEGIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY ASSOCIÉ ÉTRANGER DE LA SOCIÉTÉ DE L'ANTHROPOLOGIE DE PARIS, ETC. - WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR AND WITH MAP

PREFACE

CHAPTER I - DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK—A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED—IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN—SINGAPORE—ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA—BUITENZORG—BORO BUDUR, THE WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT - CHAPTER II - BORNEO—CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS—NATURAL RESOURCES—POPULATION— HISTORY—GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES—RACIAL PROBLEMS. - CHAPTER III - BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO—NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST COAST—BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE—SAMARINDA—TANDJONG SELOR—THE SULTAN—UP THE KAYAN RIVER. - CHAPTER IV - AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE—FIRST IMPRESSIONS—RAPID CHANGE IN THE DENSENESS OF VEGETATION—ANIMAL LIFE—A STUBBORN FIGHT - CHAPTER V - MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE—DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN—MY ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN—MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS - CHAPTER VI - RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER—LONG PANGIAN—BERI-BERI— HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS—KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO—EFFECT OF A SPIDER'S BITE - CHAPTER VII - ON THE ISAU RIVER—A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL—A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION— CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER—TAKING OMENS—ENTERTAINING SCENES - CHAPTER VIII - THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER—FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS—WITH KENYAH BOATMEN—ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING—LONG PELABAN—THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS—SOCIAL STRATA—CUSTOMS AND HABITS—VALUABLE BEADS - CHAPTER IX - HYDROPHOBIA—FUNERAL CEREMONIES—AT A PADDI HARVEST—ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING EXPEDITION—THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN—INTERESTING CEREMONIES—ON HEADHUNTING GROUND - CHAPTER X - IN FOG AND DARKNESS—A RAID BY ANTS—DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN—AN EXCITING PASSAGE—RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR - CHAPTER XI - DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN—A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE—TWO HEAD-HUNTERS— AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO—SAMPIT—THE ORANG-UTAN—STORMY WEATHER—A DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION - CHAPTER XII - THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS—CHOLERA—UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER—PURUK TJAHU—DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS—A DANCING FEAST - CHAPTER XIII - DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD—ANIMISM—BLIANS, THE PRIEST-DOCTORS—THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS—WEDDINGS—IN PRIMITIVE SURROUNDINGS - CHAPTER XIV - THE SCALY ANT-EATER—THE PORCUPINE—THE BLOW-PIPE—AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE WITH A SNAKE—HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS—AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR - CHAPTER XV - FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO—CHRISTMAS TIME—EXTENT OF MALAY INFLUENCE—THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS—AT AN OT-DANUM KAMPONG—THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS—FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO TRAVEL—MALAYS ON STRIKE - CHAPTER XVI - ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG—ON THE EQUATOR—A STARTLING ROBBERY—OUR MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY—HORNBILLS—THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID PENYAHBONG—ARRIVAL AT TAMALOË - CHAPTER XVII - THE PENYAHBONGS, MEN OF THE WOODS—RHINOCEROS HUNTERS—CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PENYAHBONGS—EASY HOUSEKEEPING—DAILY LIFE—WOMAN'S LOT - CHAPTER XVIII - A STRANGE MAMMAL—ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO—A SUPERB AND SILENT REALM—VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION—PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE—A MOUSE-DEER CHASE—ON THE KASAO RIVER - CHAPTER XIX - THE SAPUTANS—HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED—AN UNEXPECTED ATTACK OF FILARIASIS—DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS—DOWN THE KASAO RIVER—"TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS - CHAPTER XX - ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER—AMONG THE PENIHINGS—LONG KAI, A PLEASANT PLACE—A BLIAN'S SHIELD—PUNANS AND BUKATS, SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS—EXTREME PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS—LONG TJEHAN - CHAPTER XXI - AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER—LONG PAHANGEI—THE OMASULINGS—THE GREAT TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL—HOSPITABLE NATIVES—INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY - CHAPTER XXII - DAYAK DOGS—A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM—OUR RETURN JOURNEY—AGAIN AT LONG TJEHAN—IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID—A BURIAL CAVE - CHAPTER XXIII - A PROFITABLE STAY—MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO—OMEN BIRDS—THE PENIHINGS IN DAILY LIFE—TOP PLAYING—RELIGIOUS IDEAS—CURING DISEASE - CHAPTER XXIV - HEAD-HUNTING, ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE - CHAPTER XXV - DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS—FRUIT-EATING FISH—ANOTHER CALL AT LONG PAHANGEI—A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER—GENIAL NATIVES—AN INOPPORTUNE VISIT—THE DURIAN, QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS - CHAPTER XXVI - AMONG THE LONG-GLATS—IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED?— CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LONG-GLATS—GOODBYE TO THE MAHAKAM - CHAPTER XXVII - CONTINUING THE JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER—GREAT KIHAMS—BATOKELAU—AT LONG IRAM—LAST STAGES OF OUR JOURNEY—ARRIVAL AT SAMARINDA—HINDU ANTIQUITIES—NATIVE'S SUPERIORITY TO CIVILISED MAN - CHAPTER XXVIII - AN EARTHQUAKE—ERADICATING THE PLAGUE—THROUGH THE COUNTRY NORTHEAST OF BANDJERMASIN—MARTAPURA AND ITS DIAMOND-FIELDS—PENGARON—THE GIANT PIG—THE BUKITS—WELL-PRESERVED DECORATIVE DESIGNS—AN ATTRACTIVE FAMILY - CHAPTER XXIX - THE BALEI OR TEMPLE—A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY—A COURTEOUS MALAY—POWER OVER ANIMALS—NEGARA. - CHAPTER XXX - AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER—TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY—THE GATHERING OF HONEY—A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO—AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC PRODUCTION—UP THE SAMBA RIVER—WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN - CHAPTER XXXI - AMONG THE DUHOI (OT-DANUMS)—RICH COLLECTIONS—THE KAPATONGS—THE BATHING OF DAYAK INFANTS—CHRISTMAS EVE—THE FLYING BOAT—MARRIAGE CEREMONIES - CHAPTER XXXII - AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS—FACTS ABOUT ULU-OTS, THE WILD MEN OF BORNEO—TAKING LEAVE OF THE INTERESTING DUHOI—A VISIT TO THE UPPER KATINGANS—DANCING—FRIENDLY NATIVES—DOWN THE KATINGAN RIVER - CHAPTER XXXIII - KASUNGAN—THE WEALTH OF THE DAYAKS—ANIMISM—GUARDIANS OF THE DEAD—HUGE SERPENTS—CROCODILES—GOVERNMENT OF DAYS GONE BY—KATINGAN CUSTOMS AND BELIEFS - CHAPTER XXXIV - FUNERAL CUSTOMS OF THE KATINGANS—DEPARTURE FROM KASUNGAN—AN ATTEMPTED VISIT TO SEMBULO—INDIFFERENT MALAYS—A STRANGE DISEASE—THE BELIEF IN TAILED PEOPLE—THE LEGEND OF THE ANCESTOR OF TAILED MEN - CHAPTER XXXV - A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS—A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS—THE SHORT-TAILED CATS OF BORNEO—A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO—NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY BERI-BERI—THE TAMOANS—THE PRACTICE OF INCISION - FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR - CONCLUSION - SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR - A SHORT GLOSSARY - INDEX - ILLUSTRATIONS

CHAPTER I - DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK—A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED—IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN—SINGAPORE—ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA—BUITENZORG—BORO BUDUR, THE WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT

CHAPTER II - BORNEO—CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS—NATURAL RESOURCES—POPULATION— HISTORY—GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES—RACIAL PROBLEMS

CHAPTER III - BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO—NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST COAST—BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE—SAMARINDA—TANDJONG SELOR—THE SULTAN-UP THE KAYAN RIVER

CHAPTER IV - AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE—FIRST IMPRESSIONS—RAPID CHANGE IN THE DENSENESS OF VEGETATION—ANIMAL LIFE—A STUBBORN FIGHT

CHAPTER V - MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE—DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN—MY ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN-MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS

CHAPTER VI - RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER—LONG PANGIAN—BERI-BERI— HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS—KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO—EFFECT OF A SPIDER'S BITE

CHAPTER VII - ON THE ISAU RIVER—A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL—A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION— CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER—TAKING OMENS—ENTERTAINING SCENES