Travels with a donkey in the Cevennes

In late‑summer 1878 a restless writer decides to leave the comforts of home and walk the rugged hills of the Cevennes with only a stubborn donkey and a pack of modest belongings. The journey begins in the lively mountain village of Le Monastier, where rival political factions argue loudly in taverns while the locals, surprisingly generous, help him ready his unusual expedition. From the outset, his narrative blends vivid descriptions of the stark, pine‑clad landscape with wry observations about the quirks of human nature that appear amid the solitude.

As the wanderer pushes farther south, he invents a peculiar sleeping‑sack—a waterproof, fur‑lined roll that doubles as a compact bed—highlighting his practical ingenuity and the occasional comic mishap of a solitary traveler. Along dusty paths and remote inns he encounters hospitable peasants, occasional drunken debates, and the quiet companionship of his donkey, whose steady presence becomes a gentle counterpoint to the wild, beautiful countryside. The early portion of the trek offers a charming mix of humor, self‑reflection, and a vivid snapshot of rural French life.